A solid eighteen carat large cased automatic Omega Seamaster Deville watch. This is an exceptionally handsome piece and very rare model found in this stunning hue of eighteen carat gold. This is also a lovely size for watches from this period. They tended to be thirty three millimeters in size or less, but this case measures close to thirty four, not including the crown, and with the long, thick tapering lugs, it wears even larger.
The Seamaster watch’s history dates back to 1948 when it debuted in celebration of the brand’s 100th anniversary. The model was an immediate hit and became the brand’s best seller. Today it remains the oldest model in Omega’s current collection, and is as popular as ever with Omega fans.
The first Omega Seamaster was modeled after the waterproof wristwatches made for and worn by the British military during World War Two. What distinguished the Seamaster from its diving watch predecessors was its O-ring gasket which improved its water-resistance. Previously water-resistant watches relied on lead or shellac gaskets which were easily affected by temperature changes like those a diver would experience at various depths. Omega turned to the submarines used during WWII for inspiration and included a resilient rubber gasket in the Seamaster’s final design. This new case remained intact at depths up to 60 meters and temperature ranges between -40 degrees and 50 degrees Celsius. Omega engineers was so confident of the Seamaster’s durability, they attached one to the outside of an aircraft and flew it over the North Pole in 1956.
As Omega's exclusive US importer, the renowned Norman Morris not only imported watches, but also went to great lengths to elevate the brand. He contracted with American suppliers to produce cases and dials for Omega watches sold stateside, going well beyond his role as a mere importer.
For many Norman Morris US market watches, the movement is the only component produced by Omega in Switzerland. These movements typically feature 17 jewels rather than the more expensive 24-jewel variants, allowing Norman Morris to sidestep the hefty tariffs imposed on watches with more than 17 jewels imported to the United States.
Leveraging this flexibility, Norman Morris created a vast array of unique models never sold elsewhere, from the Seamaster De Ville "Kleerback" to the De Luxe and Grand Luxe lines, as well as numerous special dial variants. The De Ville line itself was a Norman Morris original, designed to fill a market segment identified and approved by Omega.
This Tiffany & Co. Seamaster De Ville (Ref. C6865) dates back to around 1973. Tiffany & Co. likely ordered these watches from Norman Morris, who sourced the Cal. 1020 movements and had to procure a supply of matching dials, as no previous Cal. 1020 Seamaster De Ville dials existed. This led to some variations in the dial text, as the Tiffany & Co. stamp was applied as a secondary stamping after the initial dial production.
Given that these dials were made nearly half a decade after the earlier Seamaster De Villes they're often compared to, potentially by a different supplier, and for a new movement type, the variations in font and kerning are unsurprising.
The movement powering this Omega watch is the automatic caliber 1020 day-date non-chronometer movement. This movement oscillates at 28,800 vph, features hacking, quick-set date, a day window, and is the non-chronometer, US market version of the Calibre 1022 with only 17 jewel.
The watch is in exceptional condition. It is almost fair to say this watch has barely ever been worn. The case is unpolished with very clean and sharp lines throughout, still featuring the gold stamp between the lugs. Since this is a US made case there are no Swiss hallmarks on its lugs. The case back is fully signed Omega, with model number 1C6865 and movement serial number stamped onto the bridge.
The vertically brushed gold dial is beautiful and very clean looking, really catching the light. The printing on the dial is a black, classic, Omega font, with the later Seamsater logo, that is not a coat-hanger s, again as these dials were printed in the US. The hours are marked out via a series of classic gold stick markers with black enamel applied to the tops. Below this it is signed "T Swiss Made T". This denotes the use of Tritium luminous material having been applied to the dial and hand set. The original fourteen carat gold hands and also have black enamel lines with the tips containing the window for the applied Tritium luminous material.
This is a very beautiful and unusual reference in superb condition. It would look very much at home under a dress shirt sleeve as it would with a polo shirt and chinos, such is its simplicity and clean nature. The condition is also superb for a watch now over fifty years of age. Add the unique Tiffany & Co. western font, and you have a great looking interesting talking point.
